What a hot water heater anode really looks like after 10 years of use in Calgary

This rod came out of a Rheem PRO50-45FV1 50 gal gas water heater, installed in Calgary.

It is 11 years old.

I don't know if it's aluminum, zinc or magnesium. But per the manual, the PRO50 was "only" a 6-year tank. I didn't upgrade, so I expect this anode is *not* of premium manufacture - so probably zinc aluminum.  Tests show it bubbles in vinegar, so magnesium.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 In short, it's in way better shape than I would have guessed. Easily has another 10 years, maybe even 20.

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That's how it looked when I pulled it - I barely touched it, and certainly didn't clean it. 

Turns out I should have done, as most of the outer layer was a thick plating of calcium:

It's pretty much original diameter. I know because (a) you can tell from the general shape, and (b) it was form-fitting to the tank opening when I pulled it - if it had ever been any bigger, it would not have fit in the first place.

 Measurements after cleaning show 0.700" to 0.800", so I'm guessing this was originally a 0.8" rod.  (Yes, most are 0.9", but AO Smith markets a 0.8".)  Not bad for a decade.

I inspected the tank interior as best I could with a borescope and found no deterioration to speak of. So it was working. And this is "only" a 6-8 year tank / anode.

I pulled it because I saw horror stories about tanks failing due to depleted anodes, so I replaced it with an A.O. Smith electrically powered permanent anode. Turns out I didn't have to worry at all (though I don't regret doing it).

I picked the A.O. over the Corro-Protec because (a) it's cheaper, (b) I figured having a longer anode didn't hurt, and (c) most importantly, the A.O. has an alarm if the anode stops operating, while the CP doesn't (which seems stupid to me). (The alarm does work.)

There was also virtually no sediment in the tank, though it's never been flushed before. So either our hard water isn't that big of a deal, the Rheem EverKleen system actually works, most of the calcium was sticking to the rod, or (likely) some combination of all three.

I happen to have a big impact wrench, which made things much easier. But if a dumbass like me can DIY this, most anyone can.

Tips:

• Be sure to set the gas to "Pilot" before starting.

• You'll need a 1-1/6" deep-well socket to remove / replace the anodes. (A lug nut socket may be the right size, but might not be deep enough.)

• I opened a tap and drained some water from the tank before removing the anode, but not quite enough, so I spilled a bit. I think there was more water in the lines than I thought. So drain more than you think you need to.

• You'll need a beefy corded impact wrench to remove the old anode. I don't think either of my cordless impacts would have done it, but with the right tool it will come out pretty well. (A breaker bar will only work if you have someone burly bear-hug the tank to stop it from turning.)

• No, the big impact will not break anything. The tanks are called "glass-lined", but are really steel with a thin porcelain coating. (It's an appliance, not Swarovski.)

• Drain the tank while the anode is out - it'll drain faster.

• Don't be Superman when tightening the new anode - decently tight with a typical 1/2" socket wrench will be fine. I'm a nerd (= weakling) who's paranoid about stripping out anything (auto techs make fun of me) and I got it sealed first try.

• I put a monitor on the 12V wall wart that powers the thing, so I get an alarm if the anode power supply fails. (This functionality is not included with the anode, so that's an optional DIY, but I like making stuff like that so why not.)

Only 1 data point, but based on this, I'd say:

• Most everyone in Calgary is pretty safe for 15-20 years before you have to fuss with a new anode; and

• Time-of-installation upsells to upgraded anodes / warranties are a bit of a scam.

YMMV.